The Jewelry-making Process ~ Aiming to inform, insight, inspire...
1. Carving Hand carving uses files and a melting tip to shape wax into form. Wax Milling is a modern option, in which a 3D designed digital file is downloaded into a machine that carves it out bit by bit. There's even a "growing" process which prints an object from wax, thin layer upon layer. Milling/growing enables details in design that otherwise would be incredibly challenging to carve by hand.
2. Sprue Up Once the wax model is ready, it is built into a "casting tree," the wax trunk of the tree, or "sprue" will create the channel for molten metal to flow into the mold. unique pieces are cast singularly, but mass produced items can be sprued up to a tree holding dozens of tiny models.
The reality of being a jeweler means many many hours are spent at a bench, with a bright light and a sharp eye, doing endless repetitive movements of filing, sanding, shaping metal. Many are unaware of the time it takes to create a piece of jewelry. It is a highly involved process. I hope to build awareness and new appreciation for how much labor it takes to bring a piece from start to finish. After the seed of inspiration is planted, there are many steps before the final piece is complete.
1. Carving Hand carving uses files and a melting tip to shape wax into form. Wax Milling is a modern option, in which a 3D designed digital file is downloaded into a machine that carves it out bit by bit. There's even a "growing" process which prints an object from wax, thin layer upon layer. Milling/growing enables details in design that otherwise would be incredibly challenging to carve by hand.
1a. Casting Natural Objects If it is a natural object that is being cast, or if you intend to make multiple wax models, there is the additional process of making a mold of the object, out of silicone or rubber, then inject hot wax into the mold to create a positive wax model of the object. A vacuum sealer is used to suck air bubbles from the mold material before it sets.
3. Investment & Burn Out A crucible is filled with plaster investment, to harden around the casting tree. Then it is put into a kiln to burn the wax out of the plaster mold- called "burnout."
4. Vacuum Sealing The investment is put into a vacuum which sucks out microscopic bubbles from the plaster before it hardens. this prevents air bubbles from creating abnormalities on the surface of the casting. The final product is a plaster negative of the object to be cast.
5. Casting The lost wax casting process is an ancient technique which has endured since the bronze age. Almost all jewelry in the present day is made by this process. Casting us done by centripetal force or vacuum methods, in which molten metal is issued into the plaster mold, filling the negative space. Casting is usually associated with mass production, and well it should be, yet casting is also a key process in most creative pieces involving hand carved wax or cast natural objects.
6. Finishing Process The casting is burst from the hot plaster by quenching it in water, and the texture it emerges with is grainy and rough, called a "casting skin". Filing After the "sprue" or base of the casting is sawed off, the process of polishing begins. Starting with the largest, roughest files, mold seams and imperfections are rhythmically cleaned up, followed by a smaller set of files for detail work Sanding with sand paper, starting with the roughest grade, following with three to four grades smoother. If a step is skipped in this process, there will be drag marks from previous steps that show up when polished! Finishing Tools Using the handheld rotary attachments, there are a wide variety of polishing tools available for sanding, burnishing, brushing, & buffing. Finally, the piece is polished on a Polishing Wheel, dipped in an Ultrasonic Cleaner, and Steamed to a bright sparkle.
7. Soldering There is usually some form of hand fabrication involved, like soldering components together, adding a bail or jump ring, or sizing a ring. After the solder, the piece is again cleaned up with files, sanding & polishing tools, and steam cleaned.
8. Stonesetting is done once all the cleanup is complete. Numerous setting burrs on the handheld attachment, and the skill of the setter ensure the perfect shape is cut for the seat. Gentle hammering carefully taps the stone into place.
9. Final Finish The finished piece is polished, steamed, and checked for imperfections. It is not uncommon for a fastidious jeweler to finish a piece multiple times, as even minor toolmarks can stand out against a mirrored finish.
